“I’m going to start showing you some texture. I haven’t put his wings on him yet, but this part of the texture, I want to make sure I do before I get the wings on. Cause I want to make sure there’s plenty of texture underneath his wings, and I’m going to do this text. You’re very much like the idea on the thigh feathers, when I showed you how to do those. And so I, again, I’m using my wipe out tool. I’m using the pointy end and anytime I’m working on the top, I’m holding up the bottom. So I went my tool and I’m digging in deep because I want this texture to really show up.”
“So now I’m going to go ahead and add in those cheeks because that’s going to help me see the rest of the shapes much better. So I’m just going to make some little balls of clay and I’m going to keep them about the same size. So I’m adding the same amount to either side, or if you notice that one size side is off, like maybe you made it too big or one side is too flat or something.
“So when I do leaves smooth this over here, I often will do them separately and place them. So a one trick you can do to, to start off your leaf making is kind of to cut some, what is that like a diamond shape, because that is kind of a leaf shaped to begin with. So I don’t need to trace off those leaves as long as I can make them put this here can make them about the the size that they’re supposed to be. I don’t really need to trace those.”
“So, what I do is I just roll up that foot piece or the hand, I guess I should be calling it and I’m going to flatten it out and I make sort of like a paddle shape, kind of like that. And then I’m going to do the same for the other side. I always lay my hands and feet out. Side-by-side because so many times I’ve done hands where I’ve done two left hands and it’s Oh, it makes me so mad. Cause I’ll, I’ll come up with one and I’ll think it actually looks pretty good.”
“And now I will, you know, I told you we were going to use a stone here, so I’m already going to see how it looks there. And this is a bead, so it has a hole in it, which is why I’m going to have to, hide that. Cool. So, I’m going to actually, carve some of the clearly, because I don’t, if I just push the stone into this area here, it’ll just expand on the sides and I don’t want that. So I’m just going to get, take out the tiny piece of this and, make it slightly larger using the bowl.”
“So first step is just going to be to wrap the clay around your foil core and how you do that is really up to you. It’s not, you want to trim off the excess, you don’t, we don’t need all that thickness. If your clay is too thick, it’s going to, it could, it could, crack on you. If you have areas that are much thicker than others. So I try to trim off what I don’t need. So let’s just move this aside for a second. I’m actually gonna get rid of this tile for a minute. I will put it on this because then it’ll be easier to move the tile than it will be to lift the frog once it has its legs on.”
“So we’re working on these feathers to make them so that you can, when I’m in the back end of your bird, or I, you know, sometimes I’ll make little buns for the hair. You can put photos wherever you want to that’s this is your choice, but this is how you do it. All right. So I sprayed this. Remember I’m putting my wire down. I want the wire delay as flatly as possible and laying that down. And then I’m taking my snake and I am laying it on top here. I want this up a little higher because I’m going to pull this down and I could use the extra link up on top to make sure that that wire gets covered.”
Learn more about the course here: https://www.curiousmondo.com/sculpting-fiber-clay-course
“I bet that’s quite a common problem to have, right. That is the tricky part with the inset eyes. Like the, the hand-painted ones are tricky to paint, but they’re super easy to sculpt in and draw. So the sculpting process with it is really easy that way. but the inset eyes are super easy cause you don’t have to paint them. So you don’t have to deal with any of like the tiny little pupil. But they can be trickier to get looking in the same direction or to not be like walleyed or, so those kinds of the each had their own challenges. So you kind of just have to play around with both of them and get used to how they are.
Ever wondered how polymer artist Melissa Terlizzi sculpts her whimsical frogs and toads? Here is your opportunity to find out, as she shares with Mondo Makers all the techniques and tricks to making a big green bullfrog! In this 3 Day sculpting course, Melissa will not only demonstrate how to make the frog, but will also create a raised pond for it to sit in, elevating a simple “sculpt” into a story-telling piece of art. With swamp-tastic bonus classes also planned, this course is a must for anyone who loves creating animals out of polymer clay, and enjoys getting carried away with color and detail. Great course on polymer clay!
“I think first we’re going to put some of the clay on, on this armature, cause I’m just itching to get this clay on there. So what we’re going to do is that just to kind of take these pieces that I’ve needed and conditioned, and I make them into little pancake shapes, and these are probably about a quarter of an inch thick and I’m just going to wrap it on, I’ll wrap it around. And when you put this on, you just want to make sure that you’re pressing the clay up snug against the armature. So you’re not leaving air pockets and speaking of air pocket, that was great timing.”
In this Fiber Clay Sculpting Class, you’ll learn to make a bird out of Fiber Clay, an easy to use medium that doesn’t have to be fired. I use only four shapes, a ball, snake, potato, and pancake, to teach you to create sculptures you’ll be amazed you built.
Anytime you put into your armature, it’s always going to pay you back in dividends by just making it so much easier. Taking the test scope. I know when I first started, sometimes it was recommended to just use skinny little wire with no padding or anything underneath it. And I think a lot of people had trouble with that method because the clay needs to have something to press against. Otherwise, if you’re just pushing into it, there’s nothing to stop that pushing. And it’s just going to keep going. So if it has something underneath it to press against, then it’s much easier to get the shapes that you want without having to push so hard in. And it just makes the doll a lot more customizable. So it’s not because it’s a small that it shouldn’t have an armature because it has a, another purpose. It does exactly control more.
You don’t have to worry about air bubbles. You don’t have to worry about slipping score. All those things that you will know about. And another thing is we can fix anything. And so that’s one thing I really want to impress on you. And I’ll be talking about it throughout the class, because if you don’t like something, we can fix it. If something cracks, we can fix it. It’s not like regular clay when you’re scoping. And if it dries out, you’re done, you can’t eat. You don’t, you can’t use it anymore with regular clay. When you’re sculpting, after you get your piece done yet the hollow it all out and make sure that there’s air holes for the air to escape in your fire. Right? Because we’re not firing. We don’t have to worry about that. Plus even if you were firing it. So it’s nylon fibers are burning out, it’s leaving air holes for the air to escape in the piece and you don’t have to worry about hollowing it out or air air holes or whatever. It just fires up just fine. So, those are some of the things I love about this play, and we’ll talk about it more as I go on, because there’s so much more, that I can tell you.
One thing you should keep in mind when cutting your clay is that, your polymer clay cover should be just a little bit smaller than the actual, notebook. And that is for multiple reasons. The most important is that, on this side, on the left side of, to the spine, the notebook needs to stay uncovered so it can open properly, which is why I suggested to, spend some quality time with your notebook, play with it and, see how it works. See how it looks when it’s open and determine how much space it needs, next to the spine in order to be able to open properly. So you can actually write this side of it because I get as a point of a notebook to actually have something. I mean, to be able to, write or drawing side of it, preferably without damaging the cover. Right? Other than that, I’m also going to need some extra space on all the sides of the notebook. And that is because I like to add the upgraded a border. So basically my notebook, we have two border. One that will be placed inside of this polymer clay background that we are cutting right now and the other one will be placed outside of it. So this is why I need, enough space on all sides. Moreover, because we need to leave that, uncovered space, on the left side of the notebook, I guess it’s more aesthetically pleasing to have the same amount of free space on all sides. Learn more about the course here: https://www.curiousmondo.com/dragonfly-notebook-cover-course
So you start with your elbows and this is the trickiest part because you’re first going all kinds of directions. You make sure to pin the elbow first because these parts lining up is the most important. They are not actually elbows. They look like elbows and that’s why I’m saying it. And you want to make sure both first your edges are right next to each other, and then I’m just working that fur down. So it’s not going to be in my seam. And just make sure when you’re pinning you pin on the same side. And now you can start working your way down the legs in the belly. I usually pin the belly next, just because it’s usually a little bit cleaner. You just make sure you’re first going down on this body part. I usually pan a little bit more than I need to just to make sure that they’re all gonna stay where they’re supposed to go when you’re sewing. So the reason I trimmed that one little piece is because I have a seam right here and that for that was showing is not going to be inside the scene. So I just wanted to trim it. So it’s out of my way.