“So I’m just gonna do this all around the notebook. Now be careful. You have to make sure that the glue gets to the braid part too, but also be careful because between the cover and the braidy, the border, there’s some tiny space where the glue can get out. Just think about how much glue you put anywhere. And now I’m going to take it and place it, make sure you place it the right way. Now, if you use super glue, wherever you put it at first, that’s where it stays. So you won’t be able to move it an inch. So now I’m just going to apply pressure. And I see I have a bump here, so I’m going to insist on this part here and apply some more pressure. Don’t be afraid to push on it. This has to happen to make sure that your cover stays.”
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“So another thing I like to do before, if I’m, hesitant of what color combinations to do. I like to have a piece of just clear paper, the paper that I’m actually going to paint on though, not some bad paper and just test your colors before you start and see what they, see what they look like. So I have a little bit of that. Ozzy red, gold I talked about is kind of a new color I don’t know much about. So maybe on a piece of scrap paper, that’s professional grade, the same paper I’m going to use for my painting. I’ll take my combination of colors and I’ll do a little triangle swatch. So this is my pression blue, so it’s quite dark.”
“And again, this is really messy. So this table may be covered with, white dust, but it’s easy to, it’s easy to clean up Right now. I’m just going over the lines. I want everything to be a nice, smooth motion. I want everything to be as deep as all the way around the cuts. So the cut, I want it to be completely the same depth so that there’s no rocky movements in these cuts. So if there’s a lot of rocky movements in the cuts, it’s going to be hard to get those scratches out with the polishing steps.”
“So I’m just gonna put a couple of dark. So usually on a face, the darkest dark should be the eyeball area, and I’m just going to hint at it. Must’ve been an American, ask him that question And I’m just going to soften that whole area. Try to get a hint of a pupil and that. Face of the eye. Notice I haven’t gone to my little brushes and I’m going to take this blue and I’m going to create this cast shadow from the lens or the, your piece of the glasses and the cast shadow.”
“When you go to make something like this, that has a lot of little pointed edges. those are more easily achieved after it’s, after the clay is dry and I’ve got one here, that’s got some little ragged edges on it. And so I’m just going to start cleaning that up. And I’m just pressing down on a cutting mat with my knife.”
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“So I had a lot of questions about what do you do when you run out and as you can see, I’m running out. But I still have to go, Oh, a big chunk over here. Very easy. What I’m going to do is I’m going to go back. I always weave these as far as I can. And splicing, triple twining can be very tricky, very tricky. And if you don’t get the right weavers in the right order, it will just be wacky. So after I’ve gone under this first, the first spoke that I took, I’m just going to clip that off on the inside. And then immediately I’m going to insert a new piece and all I’m doing is putting that right behind it.”
“So I want to start adding color. So here we go gets kind of scary. I want to use a higher value in the temple area and as outside light, tends to get cooler as it goes into the light. I’m going to start with yellow just because yellow gets, polluted easier. I’m going to go into the pure yellow and go ahead and break the form a little bit. And I’m going to kind of go to the blue in the outside light at the top of the head and where they meet. It’ll start to create a green tone. I like to put the blue in the eye socket area and let it sort of drain down the head.”
“So now I’m going to go ahead and add in those cheeks because that’s going to help me see the rest of the shapes much better. So I’m just going to make some little balls of clay and I’m going to keep them about the same size. So I’m adding the same amount to either side, or if you notice that one size side is off, like maybe you made it too big or one side is too flat or something.
“With larger pieces of glass, sometimes it is easier to isolate the thing you want to cut out, before you start cutting the details, because if you have an errant run, like for example, if I were trying to run this little square right here around the edge of the head and it went wrong, it could actually take out that whole side of the glass too. So this way, if I do go right down that centerpiece, I minimize the possibility of ruining the whole piece of glass. And this is true of art glass as well. Just gives you a greater ability to maneuver around it.”
“So when I do leaves smooth this over here, I often will do them separately and place them. So a one trick you can do to, to start off your leaf making is kind of to cut some, what is that like a diamond shape, because that is kind of a leaf shaped to begin with. So I don’t need to trace off those leaves as long as I can make them put this here can make them about the the size that they’re supposed to be. I don’t really need to trace those.”
“This is your first date with your painting? Basically I considered, if you think of the painting and you as a marriage between artist and, product, if you skip the first date, which is the drawing and the second date, which is the value study and go straight to the painting, chances are you’re, we’re going to get into a marriage where you get kind of lost and you have to figure things out when that water split much harder to do. You can make a whole bunch of decisions and understand your subject much better if you actually draw instead of trace. So there’s me off my bully pulpit plus. Okay. You just have more legitimacy as artists. If you see the drawing stage, you’re going to, be able to translate that to the brush just as well as you can to the pencil. So don’t skip this state. That’s my advice. Draw every day, get good at it and observe. This is, the first date of any piece of art.”
“And I’ve often said basket making is like any other craft or art that you do when you do something in repetition, knitting, crocheting painting. And I once had a student who came fairly regularly and she came one evening after work. And she said, you know, I almost didn’t come. I have a splitting headache. And I said, well, you can reschedule if you’d like, Oh no, I’ll go ahead and try it. About 20 minutes into the class, I went and I asked her how her headache was and she said, what headache? So there’s the answer to the headaches craft glasses.”
“So here’s the tip of the chin. Now, one of the things I need to see is the angle that it goes back. And I want to see what is the relationship between the tip of the nose and the chin. What is that implied line there? So the tip of the nose to the edge of the chin is almost vertical. I’m going to draw that angle so I can find this mapping point and his head is slightly tipped back. That’s why it’s looking like he’s jutting out his chin. Then we called this the Lennon pose when we took the picture. So his chin is jetting out.”
“So what I’m doing here is just putting acid etching cream on the high parts of the pattern. Now don’t worry too much if you color outside the lines with this, because when we fire it again, the parts that are acid etched, that don’t have mica, we’ll just fire polish. So they will not even be visible. So don’t really, don’t get so wrapped up in the perfection of this, that you paralyze yourself with inactivity. So, there’s the shell and we’re going to do the lighthouse and the turtle very quickly.”
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“When you’re working in rock mainly silica, make sure you have a good mask. I have a better one at home, but it’s gonna, it would be hard to talk through it. So I’m hoping this one’s better because at some point in this carving course, I’m going to be using this Silicon carbide wheel, which is not good to breathe in. It’ll silicate, your lungs you’ll get silicosis or whatever. It’s just really, really bad to breathe in. Pretty much any dust from lapidary is bad debris then. So if at any point you’re hafting to work at dry, which you shouldn’t really, unless it’s part of my policy. For pre polish, but mainly you work in water. So if you’re working in water and you keeping it wet, or you’re working with, with a, extended fluid, which is a Silicon based fluid that keeps the diamond on your bits. You’re not going to have to worry about a mask as much.”
“So you’ve got your length. So what you do is you find the good side of your read. Of course, you need to take it under, you can start anywhere. You take it under so that this is sticking out on the outside of the basket. Then my piece of round red, I’ve put the ants together and I’ve put it together like a hair, a pen, you know how a hairpin has that, that looped look that I’m going to hook it over this. This is the hardest part of this technique is getting it started. So I hooked it over there. I’m not going to push this down just yet, so you can really see the technique. So we’re going to have X’s on the outside of every other one. So I’m just going to take this. It doesn’t matter which one you take first, as long as you’re consistent with it. So this I take down this one up, so I make this X.”
“I think first we’re going to put some of the clay on, on this armature, cause I’m just itching to get this clay on there. So what we’re going to do is that just to kind of take these pieces that I’ve needed and conditioned, and I make them into little pancake shapes, and these are probably about a quarter of an inch thick and I’m just going to wrap it on, I’ll wrap it around. And when you put this on, you just want to make sure that you’re pressing the clay up snug against the armature. So you’re not leaving air pockets and speaking of air pocket, that was great timing.”
For plaster of paris, we use two parts plaster to one part water. We’ll just do it that way. Let’s just regular plastic. Regular plaster paris. You can get at a home Depo or a hardware store or a craft store. Two parts class, or one day. Part water, two parts plaster, one part water. By volume. Get it in the mold before it sets up too much.
I’m going to put a little bit glue down, trying to get it as flush to the face as you can. So what I mean by that is it’s not bubbling up off your face. You just want a really thin layer. This is where that nozzle comes in useful, and you take your nippers. Let’s see if I can get this up here to take your nippers, find your edge, and then just cut off some of that for. So with fur, so you don’t have to cut a ton. I cut a little bit more than I normally do. I usually cut about this much, just so I have a little bit to work with. If you have a straight edge, great. If you don’t cut a straight edge and you can feather it too, if any of you have done Cedar makeup or anything like that, what I mean by feathering is you’re going to put your thumb. You’re going to slide it back a little bit. So what it’s doing to the fur is it’s taking this top layer and it’s scooting it back, but the bottom layer is still on this finger. And so it’s staying forward. So now I have a little bit of variation in where my foot is going to end up. So it’s not a straight blunt line. It’s more feathered.
Anytime you put into your armature, it’s always going to pay you back in dividends by just making it so much easier. Taking the test scope. I know when I first started, sometimes it was recommended to just use skinny little wire with no padding or anything underneath it. And I think a lot of people had trouble with that method because the clay needs to have something to press against. Otherwise, if you’re just pushing into it, there’s nothing to stop that pushing. And it’s just going to keep going. So if it has something underneath it to press against, then it’s much easier to get the shapes that you want without having to push so hard in. And it just makes the doll a lot more customizable. So it’s not because it’s a small that it shouldn’t have an armature because it has a, another purpose. It does exactly control more.
To get started here, we’re going to just make a simple flour. And when you roll the clay out, it’s really important to always lift it first, before you start doing anything, because it’s so sticky that it’s going to want to stick to this plastic piece. And if you start cutting things out and you haven’t lifted the clay, they’re going to be stuck. So you want to always pull the clay away from the plastic. I’m just going to use a little, a little box top here to cut a circle, and I’m going to make a little flower shape out of this circle, going to actually do two. I’m going to take the top of, of a glue stick, which just happens to be about the right size for a smaller circle. It’s going to go inside. So there we have these two little pieces.
So you start with your elbows and this is the trickiest part because you’re first going all kinds of directions. You make sure to pin the elbow first because these parts lining up is the most important. They are not actually elbows. They look like elbows and that’s why I’m saying it. And you want to make sure both first your edges are right next to each other, and then I’m just working that fur down. So it’s not going to be in my seam. And just make sure when you’re pinning you pin on the same side. And now you can start working your way down the legs in the belly. I usually pin the belly next, just because it’s usually a little bit cleaner. You just make sure you’re first going down on this body part. I usually pan a little bit more than I need to just to make sure that they’re all gonna stay where they’re supposed to go when you’re sewing. So the reason I trimmed that one little piece is because I have a seam right here and that for that was showing is not going to be inside the scene. So I just wanted to trim it. So it’s out of my way.
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This fun, fast pace course will show you the step by step process of making a fully posable Fantasy Fox, Art Doll. In this tutorial, Jenny will demonstrate how to cover the armature of the fantasy fox doll.
